Depends on the health of the engine.

And the psi of the turbo.

And a whole lot of other things.

Nevermind that the stock engine is too high compression for a turbo.

So….basically…say goodbye to your money and S2k.

The stock engine is only good for about 6-7psi max with a good tuner on pump gas.It has thin, non-forged rods, cast pistons at 11:1 compression.So the engine will let go with too much pressure because it has zero threshold for knock.Once you get the engine built, then you would need to upgrade literally the rest of the drivetrain, as S2000s have weak rear differentials that shatter like glass with any torque (that Hondas are known to not have).6-7psi on a 235hp engine would make about 330hp at the engine, or about 275-280hp at the wheels.If you crack 300whp, you’re pushing it.It’s a 4 cylinder, remember.

roughly 320 before you need lower compression pistons and an engine rebuild

although there is someone on youtube who made 550hp for 6 months then he blew

my suggestion would to run 5-7 psi for roughly 300-325 hp until you can replace the bottom end with lower compression pistons and forged rods, the block can handle about 650 though with internals before it needs resleeved

Zeal, Tein, or JIC Magic.

Go to Skunk2.com and put in your car information. They will give you different types of coil overs and what those different types do. I also prefer Skunk2 brand as well. Expensive but worth it and if you love your car, don’t go cheap.

In 2008 Tom Burkland broke the piston-engined, wheel-driven record for the flying mile, recording a speed of 415.896 mph. There have been attemps to break this record with faluires mainly coming from engines generating 2500+ horspower off of too small of a block. The Target 550 team of Marlo Treit and Les Davenport are planning to raise the record for this class to more than 500 mph. But for now 415.896 mph is the mark.

Depends

You have 2 choices.Put the oxygen sensors back on, or convert the car to carbureted.
Oxygen sensors will cost all of $50 to have bungs welded back on and have them reconnected.
Carburetor will cost you upwards of $1000 or more because you will need the carb, plus a carbureted fuel pump and regulator setup due to the much lower pressure fuel needs.If you want to keep it street legal, you only have 1 option, weld the bungs back on and reconnect the oxygen sensors.They are absolutely necessary, because the sensors tell the computer how much fuel to inject based on maps.Otherwise, the computer goes into a limp mode, which will cause the issue you’re having.

all fuel injection systems that have o2 sensors depend on that and airflow to determine proper air/fuelmix.
if the exhust doesnt have holes for the o2 you can take it to and exhust shop and they can weld in the o2 bung for you.
must cars need one precat and one postcat at measure the difference in the two readings.
an exhust gas analizer would be extremly helpful in this case

Get rid of the fuel injectors and put on a 4 barrel carb. A non-computer controlled device.

Here is a hint for you. Follow the sound.

It is the same chime that is used for key-in but not for the lights-on reminder. The seat belt beeper is inside the Integrated Control Unit, located on the left kick panel. According to the wiring diagram in the Helm manual, it only cares about the driver’s seat belt, which *removes* a ground from the red/blue wire on A10 of the unit when the seat belt is fastened. As I make it out, the voltage for the switch comes through the seat belt reminder light so if the light burns out, the beeper drives you out of your mind.

If the seat belt warning light never comes on, replacing the bulb should restore your sanity. If it is always on, removing the ground from the seat belt switch should do it. The switch is shown as being bolted to the body somewhere under the driver’s seat, on the only branch that goes under the driver’s seat of the harness that goes behind the front seats. The ground is the mounting tab.

Alternatively, you may find a series of small holes on the Integrated Control Unit for the beeper to beep out of, and taping over that with duct tape is better than nothing. Then it will not be able to tell you your key is in the ignition, though.

are you sure it’s the seat belt alarm?maybe some wd-40 sprayed on the connection underneath the seat.take it apart, spray, re-connect.
open door beeps are annoying too.maybe your open door plastic switch is not being moved enough.maybe a little duct tape on it would push it more?
look for a well qualified honda electrical technician and good luck… dealer?

Unplug the the wiring under the seat.

2009 28mpg overall

The 2008 and later EPA mileage figures are supposedly much more accurate and "real-world" versusthe older tests done under more idealized conditions.However, you need to be more specific than "coupe" – year, model, engine displacement, transmission type, etc., all effect miles per gallon.

That said, I’ve gotten as high as 43.6 MPG (officially rated at 34 mpg) in my 2008 Civic DX coupe with the base 1.8 liter engine with manual transmission.That was driving a steady 60 mph, with no A/C, and a few of my own hypermiler tricks, so that mileage is exceptional.However, I’ve gotten as little as 28 zipping around town without much upshifting.

I used to get over 51 mpg in my Civic HX coupe, which had the special lean-burn VTEC-E (E for "Efficiency") engine, and that vehicle was rated 44 mpg under the old tests, but was re-rated to only 39 mpg highway under the new tests.I had been waiting to get the redesigned 2012 Civic HF (EPA rated 41 mpg), but it’s not available as a coupe this time around.

Conclusion:With careful, slower driving and good maintenance, some drivers can surpass the EPA’s miles-per-gallon rating.Hence the famous phrase, "your mileage may vary" (YMMV).

I’m going for a test drive on Tuesday, but just curious.

fit yes comfortable ???

That happened several times to my old Accord as well.When the steering wheel locks, it sometimes traps the key in the ignition.Simply turn the steering wheel a quarter inch or so while attempting to move the key and it will release.

put it in and turn.
force the steering wheel either way while attempting to turn the key.
is your shifter in P? if so, try wiggling the shifter while it’s on P and re try to turn key

www.youtube.com/watch?&gl=US&hl=en&clien??

Simply search your model in google and add search words like "modding", "performance" etc. Google should show you a bunch of sites which would contain such items for your accord. If you want something local, try searching for auto-related stores in your area.

Hope this helped!